// Our (humble) take

Our take on Carhartt’s ethical and sustainable approach

By Marie 4 October 2020

// How we went about it

We look at a brand’s sustainable and ethical approach based on the information available. For this review we put ourselves in a customer’s shoes, relying on public information: what the brand publishes on its website and social media, and what third-party partners publish when the brand cites them.

We don’t claim to hold the truth.

Our method in detail

// In short

In this article we talk about the Carhartt WIP brand, which is the authorised name of the Carhartt brand in Europe. For short, we will call it Carhartt.

🌱 The use of eco-responsible materials is still very limited at Carhartt. The brand is a member of the BCI, a controversial "organic" cotton organisation. Carhartt could go further by offering more eco-responsible materials certified by credible labels. In terms of transport and energy, Carhartt seems to be committed to a cleaner approach. Carhartt also seems to invest in checking the durability of its clothes through R&D testing.

🤝 The manufacturing sites of Carhartt WIP items are not mentioned on the product pages. The brand could go much further by giving access to the names and precise locations of its factories, as well as the number of workers, the working conditions and the products made in the factories in question. Along the same lines, the brand should give more detail on its audit policy and make its audits public. Carhartt could make more effort on the traceability of its supply chain and its transparency.

⚖️ Carhartt does not seem to be involved in raising awareness of mindful consumption. However, the brand is committed to making items that last.

Carhartt’s environmental approach

Eco-friendly materials used

Eco-friendly materials	Non-eco-friendly materials used
Organic cotton	Conventional cotton
Modal	Nylon
Leather (vegetable-tanned)	Acrylic
	Viscose
	Polyester, polyurethane,
	Leather
	Wool

* non-exhaustive list

Percentage of eco-friendly products and materials

Information published by Carhartt: Carhartt WIP overwhelmingly uses non-eco-friendly materials such as cotton, polyester and wool.

Eco-friendly materials are therefore a minority. As for organic cotton, the brand says it chose to start using it in its pieces in 2017. For its Spring/Summer 2020 collection, all the brand's pieces in Dearborn canvas are made of organic cotton. But how much of the brand's total production does this collection represent?

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 The brand only very recently started using eco-friendly materials in its pieces, and Carhartt still mostly offers non-eco-friendly materials.

Approach to environmental labels

Information published by Carhartt: Carhartt WIP has been a member of the BCI since 2017.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 While the approach is commendable, the BCI label is under heavy criticism. It does not ban the use of genetically modified seeds or pesticides, and it does not require paying workers a living wage.

Other eco-friendly initiatives

Information published by Carhartt: The brand uses the EIM software, which measures the environmental impact of the pieces it makes.

The brand mentions a switch to renewable energy for a large part of its operations, notably through the use of hydropower.

On the logistics side, Carhartt uses boxes made from 65 to 77% recycled cardboard. The brand also strongly favours sea freight over air freight.

Carhartt WIP collaborated with Converse in 2020, creating trainers made from fabrics from the Carhartt WIP archives.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ The brand seems committed to an overall environmental approach.

Support for environmental NGOs or charities

Information published by Carhartt: The brand gives no information on this subject.

R&D efforts and lab testing

Information published by Carhartt: The brand mentions tests carried out by its suppliers to check for the absence of toxic substances. To test how durable their products are, Carhartt's designers send clothes to workers in America, who then give them feedback.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ The brand seems committed to durability and measurement. Customer feedback also confirms how durable the products are. As for checking for toxic substances, the brand could publish its list for greater transparency.

Carhartt’s social approach

Transparency on manufacturing sites

Information published by Carhartt: The manufacturing sites of Carhartt WIP items are not given on the product pages.

The brand says it has a third of its collection made in its own factory in Tunisia (700 workers). It says it has set up a private bus system to make it easier for workers to get to work.

💬 Our opinion :

🔴 The information provided is far from sufficient. The brand could go further by giving access to the names and exact locations of its factories, as well as the number of workers and the type of products made in each of them.

Approach to labels and social audits

Information published by Carhartt: The brand mentions regular on-site checks: "in-depth interviews with management and workers, a physical inspection of the factories and a careful review of all documents and records";

Regarding workers' pay, the brand's Code of Conduct states that Carhartt WIP's suppliers and their subcontractors must pay "at least the total compensation required by local law, including all mandated wages, allowances and benefits". It is based on the key principles of the ILO and the UDHR: a ban on forced labour and child labour.

The brand obtained SA8000 certification in 2014.

💬 Our opinion :

🔴 The information provided is not enough to take the analysis further. It would be useful to see the brand's audit policy: are the audits carried out by independent parties or by people commissioned by the brand ("creation of a team of experts")? The brand could go further by making its audits public. What's more, the SA8000 standard is far from sufficient. As Public Eye points out, it does not involve NGOs and local stakeholders enough, and does not take brands' practices into account (pricing structure, production lead times, etc.).

Traceability across the whole supply chain

Information published by Carhartt: Carhartt WIP says it has a large share of its products made from fabrics produced in Europe. The brand also mentions business relationships with suppliers in China, Cambodia, Vietnam, India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

According to Carhartt, it works with 45 direct suppliers.

💬 Our opinion :

🔴 Insufficient information: the brand should state the exact origin of the raw materials it uses. It could also share the types of suppliers it deals with directly.

Support for NGOs or associations working to improve workers' social conditions

Information published by Carhartt: The brand gives no information on this subject.

Governance

Information published by Carhartt: The brand gives no information on this subject.

Ownership

Information published by Carhartt: Carhartt WIP belongs to the Hamilton Carhartt & Co group, a joint-stock company.

⚠️ Please note, Carhartt and Carhartt WIP are two very different lines: the first was originally made in the United States by unionised workers, while the second is a more sportswear-oriented line that does not benefit from the same production conditions.

Carhartt’s commercial approach

Sales and marketing

Information published by Carhartt: The brand runs sales and promotions. Its marketing does not seem aggressive in terms of advertising and encouraging people to buy.