Lycra

What is Lycra?

Lycra is a trademark registered by the American company Invista, which produces a synthetic elastic fibre called elastane. It is a petroleum-based synthetic material found in stretchy clothes. It is polluting and not biodegradable.

It's worth noting that the term Lycra is often used interchangeably with the term elastane, although Lycra is a trademark registered by Invista.

Lycra is known for its high stretch and its ability to return to its original shape after being stretched. It is often blended with other textile fibres such as cotton, wool, polyester or nylon to improve the stretch and recovery of these materials. Lycra is also known for its resistance to sweat, chemicals and sunlight, which makes it a popular choice for sports and outdoor clothing.

How is Lycra made?

The Lycra manufacturing process involves several steps:

1. Polymer production: polyurethane is produced through the chemical reaction of several components, including a diisocyanate and a diol. The polymer is then extruded into filaments.
2. Drawing and texturing: the polyurethane filaments are drawn and textured to produce a fine, strong elastic fibre. This fibre can be stretched up to seven times its original length.
3. Weaving and knitting: the elastic fibre is then used to produce stretch fabrics through weaving and knitting processes.
4. Finishing: the stretch fabrics are finished with chemical and heat treatments to improve their resistance to water, chemicals and sunlight.

The Lycra manufacturing process is complex and requires specialised equipment to produce high-quality elastic fibres. Elastic fibres are often blended with other textile fibres to produce stretch fabrics used to make clothing, underwear, swimwear and other items.

What are the environmental impacts of Lycra?

Lycra production has many negative effects on the environment:

1. Use of non-renewable resources: Lycra production requires non-renewable resources such as petroleum, the raw material for the polyurethane used in Lycra.
2. Greenhouse gas emissions: Lycra production generates greenhouse gas emissions, including carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrous oxide (N2O), which contribute to climate change.
3. Water use: Lycra production also requires water for manufacturing processes and chemical treatments, which can affect local water resources.
4. Waste disposal: the waste generated by Lycra production, such as the chemicals used in treatments and unused Lycra fibres, can be difficult to dispose of responsibly.
5. Impact on biodiversity: the effluents and waste generated by Lycra production can also affect biodiversity and the quality of local water and soil.

It's worth noting that these environmental impacts are not specific to Lycra, but also apply to the production of other synthetic fibres such as polyester and nylon. However, there are more sustainable alternatives for clothing

What are the alternatives?

The only more environmentally friendly alternative that keeps the material's original properties is to turn to its recycled version.

Recycled elastane (or Lycra) is a material made by recovering synthetic fibres and turning them into recycled elastane. More eco-friendly than its virgin version, recycled elastane doesn't draw on natural resources, but reuses material that has already been produced. Yet its recycled version loses nothing in quality or stretch.