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// Our (humble) take

Our take on Asphalte’s ethical and sustainable approach

By Marie 4 February 2021
Asphalte logo

// How we went about it

We look at a brand’s sustainable and ethical approach based on the information available. For this review we put ourselves in a customer’s shoes, relying on public information: what the brand publishes on its website and social media, and what third-party partners publish when the brand cites them.

We don’t claim to hold the truth.

Our method in detail

// In short

🌱 Materials vary from drop to drop. Most of the time, Asphalte chooses materials that meet eco-responsible criteria, with certified materials (GOTS-certified organic cotton, for example). The brand is transparent about the raw materials it uses, including the names of its suppliers, labels and any certifications. However, the brand uses a small share of certain materials to avoid.

🤝 On the ethical side, the brand is fully transparent about where its factories are, from the raw material supplier to manufacturing, but it doesn't mention any social audits on working conditions. While Asphalte says it makes regular visits and ensures everything is fine, the brand could go further by offering audits.

⚖️ Asphalte uses a pre-order model that lets the brand keep only 5% stock, which limits unsold items and middlemen. From design to use, the brand stays close to its customers with care and recycling guides and design questionnaires. However, the brand could go further on its durability claim by backing it up with laboratory tests.

01

Asphalte’s environmental approach

Eco-responsible materials used by Asphalte:

Eco-responsible materials
Materials to avoid
Organic cotton (GOTS) Merino wool (not certified)
Wool (mulesing-free) Polyester
Acetate
BCI cotton

Percentage of eco-responsible materials:

Information published by Asphalte:

Depending on the drops, we can name some of the eco-responsible materials used by Asphalte, notably GOTS-certified organic cotton and mulesing-free wool.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ The brand mostly uses certified eco-responsible materials. The origins of the materials are very often detailed, along with any labels and certifications.

🔴 Some materials, often used in small amounts, are best avoided: polyester, acetate...

Approach to environmental labels

Information published by Asphalte:

Asphalte offers items made from materials that are often certified. Certifications include GOTS and OEKO-TEX in particular.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ The brand appears to be committed to labelling and certification.

🔴 "Mulesing-free" is just a claim that isn't linked to a label in the descriptions of Asphalte's wool materials. If this claim is verified by an independent audit, the brand could name the certifying body. Also, BCI certification for cotton is controversial, as it doesn't always certify that the cotton actually used is organic.

Other eco-responsible initiatives

Information published by Asphalte:

Asphalte's main eco-responsible initiative is based on a pre-order system. Through questionnaires sent to customers, the brand develops products according to their specific requests, to avoid stock. Only 5% stock is produced, to allow for possible size changes. "With this system, there are no middlemen, no stock, no sales, no unsold items", the brand says. The questionnaires cover topics such as the collection plan, the final design and final colours, and product satisfaction.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ By setting up a pre-order system, the brand is committed to considered production, adapted to customers' needs.

Support for environmental NGOs or charities

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand doesn't mention anything on this subject.

R&D efforts and laboratory testing

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand doesn't mention anything on this subject.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 Asphalte often puts forward the durability of its clothes. However, the brand could go further by committing to measure the durability of its products with laboratory tests, backing this claim up with factual measurements.

02

Asphalte’s social approach

Transparency about manufacturing sites

Information published by Asphalte:

Among the goals Asphalte has set itself is transparency about where its products are made. Manufacturing sites are listed on (almost) every product page, along with the name of the factory concerned. The brand has its products made in the following countries: France (Brittany), Portugal (at Perfect Eject, Expotime, Carjobel, Elmate, Penha, Ribul, Martoni, Eigui, Cortextile, CM Borges and Vermis), Romania (at Formens), Morocco (in Casablanca and at Stourika), Italy and Vietnam.

On the product pages of many items, you can watch videos about the products and the factories mentioned.

💬 Our opinion :

✅ Asphalte seems committed to being transparent about where its clothes are made.

🔴 The brand could go further by sharing more information about its factories: wages, working conditions, workforce, etc.

Approach to social labels and audits

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand says it works with partners who share Asphalte's values, and states that it sends a questionnaire beforehand to every supplier and manufacturer to check their approach (quality, responsibility). The website also mentions regular factory visits to check that standards are being met, and to carry out interviews and take photographs.

The audits of the brand's factories are not publicly available. No social label is mentioned on the website.

💬 Our opinion :

🔴The brand could go further by detailing working conditions and any social audits carried out. Without the audit reports, we cannot analyse the working conditions at the brand's partners any further.

Traceability across the whole supply chain

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand clearly states its commitment to transparency and, for (almost) every item, shares where the raw materials come from and the names of its suppliers at every tier.

The origins of the following raw materials are given: Pima cotton (USA), wool (Australia, Tasmania), linen (Normandy, Coopérative Terre de Lin), leather (Galicia, Spain), cotton (India, Zimbabwe, Egypt).

The following suppliers (all tiers) are also mentioned: leather (Mastrotto, Italy), wool (Hardy Minnis + Moon + Knoll Yarn, UK; Bacci + Tollegno, Italy; Leichtfried, Austria), cotton (Brisbane Moss, UK; NuovaTessilBrenta, Italy), “French canvas”, leather (Skin, Morocco), flannel (Kuwamura, Japan), linen (Italy; Emanuel Lang, France), recycled polyester (Balas, Lyon; Lemar, Portugal), leather tanning (Picusa, Spain), cotton (India; Eigui, Portugal; Dova + Collect + Japan Blue, Japan; Egypt; Monti, Italy), cotton washing (IVN, Portugal), GoodYear soles (Northamptonshire, UK).

💬 Our opinion :

✅ The brand seems committed to transparency and traceability.

Support for NGOs or charities working to improve workers' social conditions

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand mentions nothing on this.

Governance

Information published by Asphalte:

Asphalte's website mentions a team of 15 people. No further information on the company's governance is available.

Company ownership

Information published by Asphalte:

Asphalte is owned by the company Six et Sept.

There is little or no information about who owns the company or how its capital is structured. It appears that the founder or founders hold 100% of the capital. This information comes from an article dated 4 March 2020: “Its first pre-order campaign, for a jumper, raised 230,000 euros. A success that caught the eye of several investment funds… all of which were sent packing.”

03

Asphalte’s commercial approach

Sales and marketing

Information published by Asphalte:

The brand sells its clothes through a pre-order model. The remaining 5% of stock (kept for size exchanges) may be sold at a discount. The brand's marketing seems quite pushy (ads everywhere)

💬 Our opinion :

✅ The pre-order model seems in keeping with a certain "slowness" and with fashion that doesn't follow trends.

🔴 The brand seems to rely on rather pushy marketing.

Raising awareness and educating about overconsumption

Information published by Asphalte:

Asphalte builds a relationship with its customers by involving them in product design through the questionnaires mentioned above. In return for their help, customers get access to very detailed product pages: the item's composition, where the raw materials come from, and the names of the suppliers involved in producing and making the items.

The website offers a care guide for each product, as well as a map of tailors and cobblers in France and Belgium. The brand also gives advice on recycling your clothes.

💬 Our opinion :

✅ Asphalte seems committed to guiding customers towards clothes that last.

This article was written by: Anna Demont, Beryl Tirali and Marie Nguyen.

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// The discussion

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