What is elastane?
Elastane is a synthetic chemical material derived from petroleum, often found in clothing. The terms "Spandex", "Fibre K" and "Lycra" (a registered trademark) are sometimes used to refer to this same fibre, elastane.
It is a synthetic fibre valued for its elasticity, which makes it one of the textile industry's materials of choice today, especially for making sportswear : wetsuits, swimsuits, leotards... It is also found in ready-to-wear (socks, shirts, maternity wear..) and in interiors (furniture upholstery, chair covers...).
Elastane is now strongly criticised for its harmful effects on the environment and on consumers' health. Here are a few reasons why:
- Elastane is made of at least 85% segmented polyurethane, a molecule derived from petroleum.
- Like polyester, machine washing elastane releases plastic microparticles that pollute marine ecosystems. One wash load of clothes containing elastane is said to release 700 000 of these microfibres into rivers and oceans.
Sustainable fashion brands therefore prefer to replace it with recycled elastane whenever possible.
Elastane, a polluting material to avoid
Elastane, a non-biodegradable, petroleum-based synthetic fibre
The way elastane is made is controversial today because of its environmental and health impacts. Producing elastane involves petroleum, solvents and chemicals that are hazardous to the environment and to health. Volatile organic compounds are released during production. The silicone oils used in its manufacture are very hard to remove. They usually stay stuck to the fibres even after washing. Large amounts of solvent are needed to clean them off.
Recent studies have shown that synthetic clothes made from synthetic microfibres, such as elastane, are responsible for plastic pollution in oceans, lakes and rivers.
Each wash of a synthetic garment (made from Spandex, polyester, PVC or nylon) is said to release 700 000 plastic microfibres into wastewater, which then flows into rivers. Another downside: clothes made from elastane have a fairly short lifespan. Elastane is not very heat-resistant (dry or moist heat).
Swimsuits, leggings and other sportswear often wear out quickly. Just a few washes or drying at too high a temperature are enough to damage the product.
Why is elastane used in textiles?
After being the preserve of the sports market (particularly with the growth of the Lycra brand), elastane is now favoured for a wide range of ready-to-wear products. Soft and light, finer and stronger than natural rubber thread, elastane fibre is favoured for making soft, stretchy clothes : underwear, trousers, socks, t-shirts, swimsuits, tights etc. It helps a garment keep its original shape even after stretching.
Elastane is hydrophobic, which means it absorbs very little water. It resists abrasives and chemicals well. Dry or moist heat can, however, damage its elastic qualities. Comfortable, it is a material consumers like.
How elastane is made : from synthetic fibre to stretch garment
A synthetic fibre produced in a laboratory
Elastane fibres are produced from a synthetic rubber called polyurethane (a petroleum-based molecule). Elastane is the result of various chemical transformations obtained through polymerisation.
When the fibre is produced (dry spinning), the polymer is first dissolved in a chemical called dimethylacetamide. Residues of this solvent can remain in the fibre and end up in wastewater during machine washing.
To give the material enough slip, finishing agents such as silicone oils are then applied to the fibre.
The principle is to obtain a spinnable product (a kind of gel) that is pushed through spinnerets and comes out as yarns, which are then woven or knitted. Elastane can be blended with other fibres, natural (like cotton in jeans production) or synthetic.
While elastane is sought after today for its elastic properties and its hypoallergenic nature (less allergenic than latex), many toxic chemicals are used to make it.
What is ethical fashion doing?
Faced with such a negative environmental impact, many brands and start-ups in ethical and eco-friendly fashion are trying to find alternatives, offering eco-friendly clothes for women as well as eco-friendly clothes for men.
One of them is Gayaskin, the sports and yoga wear brand made from recycled fibres. It uses materials such as recycled polyester, recycled polyamide, recycled elastane... Some pieces still contain a tiny share of non-recycled elastane, and the brand is committed to gradually reducing its use.
From upcycled clothes to organic underwear for men and organic underwear for women, as well as recycled shoes, our sustainable brands are finding ethical alternatives for eco-friendly fashion that respects the environment.
History of elastane
Originally called « Fibre K » when it was created by scientist Joseph C. Shivers in 1958, elastane is now hugely successful. It is one of those stretchy, comfortable synthetic fibres that dominate the textile industry today.
Its growth in the textile market keeps rising : worldwide, elastane production grows by 7 to 8% a year on average.
Asian countries (South Korea, China, Japan) are the world leaders in elastane production : according to an economic bulletin from January 2018, the South Korean textile manufacturer Hyosung holds 30% of the global market (production reaching 190 000 tonnes of elastane a year).
North America (Canada, US) is the second-largest exporter of elastane, followed by Europe (Germany, United Kingdom). Demand for elastane is especially strong in Asian countries, the leading producers of synthetic textiles. In Europe, on the other hand, high labour costs combined with low demand make it a little-sought-after material.
