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// Our (humble) take

Our take on The Kooples’s ethical and sustainable approach

By Marie 1 October 2021
The Kooples logo

// How we went about it

We look at a brand’s sustainable and ethical approach based on the information available. For this review we put ourselves in a customer’s shoes, relying on public information: what the brand publishes on its website and social media, and what third-party partners publish when the brand cites them.

We don’t claim to hold the truth.

Our method in detail

// In short

🌱 At present, The Kooples does not seem to be committed to eco-friendly fashion at all: most of the raw materials it uses are considered neither eco-friendly nor sustainable. What's more, none of the raw materials used is certified.

🤝 To date, The Kooples' social approach seems to be non-existent. The brand is not transparent about where its clothes are made and mentions no audit guaranteeing that minimum social standards are respected in its factories.

⚖️ The Kooples' commercial practices are conventional: sales, no awareness-raising about overconsumption. Also, given the brand's pricing policy, we feel it could commit to being transparent in a way that justifies its prices.

01

The Kooples’s environmental approach

Eco-friendly materials Non eco-friendly materials
Linen Cotton
Cupro Acrylic
Modal Elastane
Tencel Lyocell Polyester
Polyamide
Polyurethane
Leather
Acetate
Wool
Silk
Viscose
Cashmere
Rubber

Non-exhaustive list.

Percentage of eco-friendly products in the whole collection

Information published by The Kooples:

The exact composition percentages of the items are given on the product pages.

Among the few eco-friendly materials the brand uses are cupro, linen, modal and lyocell. However, these materials remain a very small minority.

The Kooples mainly uses non eco-friendly materials: "conventional" cotton, lots of synthetics such as polyester, polyurethane, acrylic, etc. Many materials come from animals; however, in 2016 the brand pledged to stop using fur and angora, following a campaign led by PETA.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 Although it publishes the composition of its products, the brand shows no particular will to use eco-friendly materials. These remain a very small minority.

The materials The Kooples uses are very cheap (synthetics, conventional cotton, etc.) and do not seem at all in line with the prices charged.

Approach to environmental labels

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand gives no information. The materials do not seem to be certified and their origins are not detailed.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 The brand does not seem to be committed to an eco-friendly approach at all.

Other eco-friendly initiatives

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand gives no information about a carbon footprint assessment, a CSR report, etc.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 The brand does not seem to invest in sustainability.

Support for environmental NGOs or charities

Information published by The Kooples:

The Kooples collaborated with PETA in January 2018. For the occasion, the brand offered a vegan leather clutch, with all profits donated to PETA.

💬 Our opinion:

✅ This partnership is interesting, as it shows that The Kooples is able to work with more ethical materials.

🔴 However, The Kooples does not seem to be building on this initiative. No animal material seems to be certified, notably against animal cruelty.

R&D efforts and laboratory testing

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand gives no information.

🔴 The Kooples does not seem to be working on improving the sustainability of its collections.

02

The Kooples’s social approach

Transparency about manufacturing sites

Information published by The Kooples:

The manufacturing sites of The Kooples items are not mentioned on the product pages, nor on the brand's website. No country of manufacture is mentioned!

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 It's rare to find no country of manufacture at all, neither on the product pages nor anywhere on the website. And yet The Kooples never mentions one. To find out where things are made, you have to wait and read the garment's label.

Approach to labels and social audits

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand provides no information.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 It's impossible to know whether the brand really cares about its social approach, since nothing is said about it.

Traceability of the entire supply chain

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand provides no information. It's not possible to know where the raw materials come from, nor which suppliers the brand works with directly.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 The brand is not committed at all to being transparent with consumers.

Support for NGOs or associations working to improve workers' social conditions

Information published by The Kooples:

In June 2020, the brand supported the association Le Refuge, which fights the social exclusion of young LGBTQIA+ people. This support takes the form of donations.

Governance

Information published by The Kooples:

The brand provides no information. Today we don't know who runs the company, or how. The brand publishes a (mini) report on its equality index, giving the breakdown of its score.

Company ownership

Information published by The Kooples:

In March 2019, the Maus Frères group (which also owns Lacoste) bought the whole of The Kooples.

03

The Kooples’s commercial approach

Sales and marketing

Information published by The Kooples:

The Kooples uses conventional communication: advertising, influencers (with the couple Vincent Cassel and Tina Kunakey), sales and promotions, etc.

What's more, prices are high but can't be explained given the information available: inexpensive raw materials and unknown production sites.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 The brand doesn't seem particularly committed to responsible practices. When we looked at the website during the sales (February 2021), it was impossible to find the discount percentages or the original prices of the items shown as on sale. This lack of information shows no commitment to transparency.

Raising awareness and educating about overconsumption

Information published by The Kooples:

The Kooples gives advice on caring for your clothes (washing, care). However, this advice isn't given for every item. The brand doesn't communicate about the issues of overconsumption.

💬 Our opinion:

🔴 So The Kooples gives partial care advice for its items, and doesn't seem committed to raising consumer awareness of overconsumption issues.

This article was written by: Anna Demont, Beryl Tirali and Marie Nguyen.

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// The discussion

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