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// Our (humble) take

Our take on Maison Standards’s ethical and sustainable approach

By Marie 26 February 2021
Maison Standards logo

// How we went about it

We look at a brand’s sustainable and ethical approach based on the information available. For this review we put ourselves in a customer’s shoes, relying on public information: what the brand publishes on its website and social media, and what third-party partners publish when the brand cites them.

We don’t claim to hold the truth.

Our method in detail

// In short

🌱 Maison Standards clearly presents itself as wanting to commit to an eco-responsible approach. However, to date, the brand mostly uses materials we do not consider eco-responsible: conventional cotton, BCI cotton, viscose... Although it also states its intention to get certified, few of its clothes carry a label.

🤝 On the social side, the brand shares its countries of manufacture but remains fairly opaque about the exact places where its products are made, and about its full production chain. Also, despite its certification efforts, the brand gives access neither to the names of its factories nor to their social audits.

⚖️ Maison Standards' sales practices do support an eco-responsible approach: in particular, the brand offers pre-orders and educational content for its customers.

01

Maison Standards’s environmental approach

Eco-friendly materials used

Eco-friendly materials Non eco-friendly materials
Organic cotton Cashmere
Linen Cotton
BCI cotton
Lyocell Leather
Elastane
Wool
Lycra
Polyamide
Polyester
Silk
Viscose

Non-exhaustive list.

Percentage of eco-friendly materials

Information published by Maison Standards

The brand states its wish to commit to an eco-friendly approach and claims to use 80% eco-friendly materials in its collections.

Unfortunately, we did not reach the same proportions: it turns out that Maison Standards mostly uses materials that are not considered eco-friendly, such as conventional cotton, polyester or viscose.

The difference between the percentage stated by Maison Standards and our analysis may lie in how an eco-friendly material is defined. 2 very different distinctions: BCI cotton and viscose are not considered eco-friendly by WeDressFair, whereas they seem to be for Maison Standard.

Man-made materials such as viscose, Tencel (Lyocell), ECOVERO... are all produced from cellulose (wood pulp), but they all go through different transformation processes that make them more or less eco-friendly. Viscose uses chemical solvents that are neither recyclable nor biodegradable, and uses large quantities of water in its manufacture. ECOVERO uses chemical solvents that are recyclable and reused in a closed loop (little solvent loss), as well as a recycled and reused organic solvent. Lyocell (Tencel) uses only an organic, non-toxic solvent (NMMO), which is recyclable and reused in a closed loop. ECOVERO and Lyocell (Tencel) also have a certified cellulose source (FSC, PEFC) and a final fibre certified by the European EU Ecolabel.

So Maison Standards may be using viscose made with an eco-friendly process but not mentioning it on its website.

As for BCI cotton, since this certification does not ban the use of pesticides or insecticides, we do not consider it an organic cotton certification.

💬 Our opinion

🔴 The brand mostly uses non-sustainable materials. Eco-friendly materials such as linen and lyocell make up a very small share and are often blended with non-sustainable materials, which only very slightly reduces the environmental impact of production.

Also, the composition is not given for every product, especially shoes. In addition, the brand sometimes uses abbreviations such as "pes" (for polyester) or "ea" (for elastane) in its descriptions, or the term "coton organique", which remains vague about whether the cotton is actually organic. We feel this kind of description can mislead consumers.

Approach to environmental labels

Information published by Maison Standards

All Maison Standards items are OEKO-TEX certified, which means that no substance toxic to humans or the environment was used in making the products.

The brand also plans to obtain GOTS certification for an entire product line. All the brand's suppliers are GOTS certified.

REACH certification is also often highlighted.

💬 Our opinion

✅ The brand shows a wish to be certified by labels known for their rigour, notably OEKO-TEX and GOTS.

🔴 However, the brand's communication about its current certifications is somewhat confusing. On its website it states that "Maison Standards styles with GOTS certification can be recognised by [the GOTS pictogram in the descriptions]", yet no product currently published has one. Some product descriptions do, however, include the statement "This item was made in our GOTS-certified workshop". This statement does not guarantee that the finished product is actually GOTS certified, and may mislead consumers. Suppliers being GOTS certified does not mean the finished products are GOTS certified.

Also, be careful with the REACH argument: this certification is a legal requirement for selling products in Europe, and in no way an additional commitment by the brand.

Other eco-friendly initiatives

Information published by Maison Standards

From 13 March to 15 April 2020, in partnership with the charity Le Relais, Maison Standards organised a jeans collection drive.

💬 Our opinion

✅ This initiative lets the brand take part in the circular economy and extend the life of its clothes. The brand could perhaps make this kind of initiative permanent, or build the end-of-life question directly into the design of its clothes.

Support for environmental NGOs or charities

Information published by Maison Standards

No information has been published on this.

R&D efforts and laboratory testing

Information published by Maison Standards

The brand does not share information about R&D or tests it carries out itself, but aims to favour innovative, less polluting techniques. Since September 2009, the denim collection has been washed using eco-wash technology, which saves water.

💬 Our opinion

✅ Maison Standard seems keen to reduce its environmental impact by adopting less polluting techniques.

🔴 An impact assessment backing up this commitment with figures would be welcome.

02

Maison Standards’s social approach

Transparency about manufacturing sites

Information published by Maison Standards

The countries of manufacture are listed on the product pages. The brand says it favours short supply chains and chooses its manufacturing sites according to where the raw materials come from.

💬 Our opinion

✅ Maison Standards seems committed to transparency by listing the countries of manufacture on each product page.

🔴 However, the brand could go further in this commitment to transparency by giving the exact manufacturing sites as well as the working conditions.

Approach to labels and social audits

Information published by Maison Standards

Maison Standards has all its partners sign a code of conduct based on international labour standards. The brand highlights the fact that these workshops are "certified" BSCI and/or SA8000, GOTS, etc...

💬 Our opinion

✅ The brand commits its partners to respecting minimum social standards, and several of its partners are SA8000 certified, guaranteeing the ILO minimum standards.

🔴 However, signing the code of conduct alone does not guarantee that minimum social standards are actually respected.

Likewise for the BSCI and SA8000 certifications, what matters is the date of the last social audit and its findings. It would be good to have access to these audits.

Traceability of the whole supply chain

Information published by Maison Standards

The brand briefly presents 3 of its workshops in 3 different countries: Portugal, Tunisia and China. The names of the factories are not given, so it is currently impossible to know how many partners the brand works with.

💬 Our opinion

✅ Maison Standards sometimes mentions, on its product pages, the origin of its raw material suppliers.

🔴 However, this remains the exception rather than the rule. It would be good to have full traceability of the brand's value chain.

Support for NGOs or associations working to improve workers' social conditions

Information published by Maison Standards

From 8 to 20 April 2020, Maison Standards held a Charity Sale during which the profits from sales of part of its collection were donated to the Fondation des Hôpitaux de Paris - Hôpitaux de France. More recently, the brand held another Charity Sale, this time in partnership with the association Toutes à l'école.

Governance

Information published by Maison Standards

The brand publishes no information on this subject.

Company ownership

Information published by Maison Standards

The Maison Standard brand appears to be owned and/or run by Bertrand Rochebillard and Christine Feuchot.

03

Maison Standards’s commercial approach

Sales and marketing

Information published by Maison Standards

💬 Our opinion

✅ Maison Standard takes a different and rather interesting approach to selling. In particular, it has a "last chance" section where you would expect to see crossed-out prices, but that is not the case. The brand chooses to display only the discounted prices.

Maison Standards runs pre-sales and pre-orders, which reduces the number of products actually made and limits the risk of overstock.

Raising awareness and education about overconsumption

Information published by Maison Standards

Maison Standards raises its customers' awareness of fashion's environmental issues, on its website and on social media, notably through educational content.

💬 Our opinion

✅ Maison Standards seems keen to involve its customers in raising awareness. It could go even further, notably with a richer blog section about its choices throughout its value chain.

This article was written by: Anna Demont, Beryl Tirali and Marie Nguyen.

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// The discussion

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